Almost 20 Years

Yes, the wine was even more lovely than the bottle looks:  1992 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, enjoyed with Susan and three Master Sommelier friends, Wayne Belding (CO), Laura Williamson (AZ), and Scott Carney (NY), during Greenville's 2011 Euphoria Festival.

Thanks, too, to American Grocery's Sommelier, Darlene Clarke, for a wonderful wine list.  We brought the Clos du Val from our cellar, and Laura brought a fabulous bottle of Ökonomierat Rebholz Grosses Gewachs Riesling: superb!  But we also enjoyed J.L. Chave Saint-Joseph "Céleste" 2009, Guiseppe Quintarelli Valpolicella 1999, from AGR's thoughtfully chosen wine list.

Too Good to Miss!

Hi friends!  It has a while since I've been able to spend adequate time at Vine & Grape. But this video discussion of high-alcohol wines on YouTube, featuring Bartholomew Broadbent, is too good to miss:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg01JIX2C8w&feature

Be sure you go on to Part 2 when the initial part ends abruptly.  You can click next, or the link is here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=yEpoy1yypYU

In the interests of being in touch more often, I'm going to try to do more frequent short posts like this.  Send me a quick note if they are helpful!  Thanks.

Hot Wines

No, "hot wines" doesn't refer to sales leaders.  It refers to the continuing trend toward higher alcohol, which causes excessive warmth in your throat, particularly during the wine's finish.

Reuters published an interesting report here, based on an academic paper located here. In summary, the two make it clear that increasing alcohol is a deliberate decision in terms of wine style. It also appears some wineries are using the legal "fudge factor" to release wines higher in alcohol than the label states. If you are not familiar with the law, the percentage of alcohol stated on the label is permitted to be off by plus or minus 1% at or above 14.1% (plus or minus 1.5% for wines 14% and below).

The paper rightly notes that there is a small  economic advantage to understating alcohol, because wines under 14% are taxed at a lower rate ($1.07 per gallon) than wines from 14-21% ($1.57 per gallon).  However, given five 750ml bottles per gallon, the economic advantage for "fudging" is only a dime per bottle.  The worst offenders—in terms of excessively high alcohol—are so far above 14%, their most egregious sin is not cheating on taxes, but rather, producing badly out of balance wines.

Thankfully, evidence is beginning to emerge that the market is rejecting so-called "phenolic ripeness" as an excuse for overly extracted, highly alcoholic table wines.  See this article on Kistler, from the New York Times.  "More structured, lively wines that go with food, that have power and finesse all at the same time," is what Mr. Kistler is reported as seeking.

Bravo! May we see more new world vintners following the long-time masters of balance like Clos du Val, Arcadian, and others. Hot wines? Maybe the term will once again, someday, only refer to top sellers. Until then, don't put too much trust in label percentages to guide you. Let your throat (and sadly perhaps, your head the next morning) be your guide.

Do As I Say, Not As I Do?

Some of you know I lived between Philadelphia and New York, when I worked in the publishing business. Susan and I loved the area. Moreover, The Philadelphia Inquirer, was (and presumably remains) one of the finest newspapers in the U.S.

I wasn't surprised, then, to find Philly.com reporting on Robert Parker's visit to Bibou—the French-themed BYOB, cash only restaurant on South 8th (link). When we lived in Philadelphia, the Inquirer always seemed to know better than we did what was going on right in our own neighborhood. Philadelphia isn't quite Parker's backyard (Monkton, MD), but it's not far.

And Philly.com, the Inquirer's digital arm, has maintained the paper's reputation for great reporting. Witness, their quote from Parker's diatribe against anyone who challenges his big-fruit, big-alcohol ratings:

"I loved everything about this place. . . the quality of the food alone merits a must visit," he wrote. "Add the BYO and no corkage. . . and better yet . . . no precious sommelier trying to sell us some teeth enamel removing wine with acid levels close to toxic, made by some sheep farmer on the north side of his 4,000-foot foot elevation vineyard picked two months before ripeness, and made from a grape better fed to wild boar than the human species."

Wonder how he really feels? Complete article, including the wines Parker took to Bibou here (most not high-alcohol fruit bombs, aside from Beaux Freres in which Parker is a partner) . Hmm. "Drink what I say, not what I do"? But that would kill the ratings game, wouldn't it?

Thoughtful Beer & Wine List

Requests come often to suggest this restaurant or that restaurant to Vine & Grape readers, or to The Greenville Wine Meetup's 800-plus members.

Those are fair requests. Running a restaurant is tough and competitive. All of us want to succeed.

A new restaurant is opening tonight, however, that has earned a mention—and they didn't even ask for it. First, I'm a seafood fan. Second (and most of all for Vine & Grape readers), we need to support restaurants that take the time to put real thought and care into their beer and wine selections. This venue scores on both counts.

So, if you are out-and-about in Greenville, SC, tonight, stop in at The Plaid Pelican on South Pleasantburg (in the same shopping center as Fresh Market). I was a fan of Chef Paul's fish dishes when his restaurant was located in an out-of-the-way spot on Stallings Road. I'm an even bigger fan now that I have seen the beer & wine list at the new location. Too seldom do we see interesting, thoughtfully-constructed lists, offering multiple opportunities to try something new; to learn and to grow.

Ah, wine lovers! We think we have it tough when we are trying to decide among six gorgeous Sauvignon Blancs (more on that in a post yet to come, on the recent Greenville Wine Meetup "shoot out" spanning France, California, and New Zealand).

But life is tougher still, if you've laid claim to the term "Mommy" in your wine branding.  Click here, to see the New York Times article.

One caution:  the New York Times allows access to the online version if you are a print subscriber (Susan and I do subscribe).  If you have problems with the link, above, perhaps that's the reason.  But hope you'll have no problems!

We Don't Always Drink Wine!

OK, friends! We don't always drink wine. While Susan, her sister, and I were in Sedona, AZ, last February, we encountered some of the nicest tequilas we've tasted. Beyond that, this firm's margarita mix is better than the made-from-scratch recipe Susan & I developed.

Tres Agaves is the brand (NOM 1109 for those who follow tequila), but sadly, it's not yet available in South Carolina. But if you are traveling to Virginia—or better still, out West—don't miss the chance to try their product. The line-up in the photo shows the silver, reposada, and añejo (right to left), followed by the margarita mix and a bottle of agave nectar, in the event you'd like to craft your own mix!

Awesome Aussie Foursome

Susan & I have wonderful Australian friends, Bill & Wendy Scholtes.

Susan worked with Bill, before he and Wendy returned to Australia. The last visit they made to the U.S., Bill brought along some of his favorite wines for all of us to enjoy.

We so much enjoyed being together, I only made limited tasting notes. But these wines were so good, I had to post them.

An additional reason is because, for those who know me well, you know my palate generally favors Europe—with much (but not all) of California and Australia being too ripe and too alcoholic. So, either the friendship was so warm with Bill & Wendy (it was!) I didn't notice the alcohol, or these were good examples of the balance that can be achieved even at 14.5%.

Of particular note was the 2006 St. Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. The texture was extraordinary and the fresh eucalyptus in the nose was the most distinct I've experienced. These wines reminded me of why I've loved my visits to Australia.  Checking WineSearcher.com, it appears the St. Hugo and the Centenary Hill are available in the U.S. For the two others, you'll have to join us on Qantas soon!

Real Wine

Readers of Vine & Grape and members of The Greenville Wine Meetup know how often we've talked about old world vs. new world; non-interventionist winegrowing vs. interventionist winemaking; balance & elegance vs. bold & alcoholic. Readers know I'm not without an opinion in this debate—as none of us should be.

So, it's a pleasure to present a bottle we can call "real wine." Yves Cuilleron consistent produces balanced, intelligent wines of intellectual depth and complexity.

I was seeking a bottle of his Bassenon recently. When I unable to find it, I tried the 2002 Terres Sombres ("dark grounds"). Fabulous!  Dried cranberry, red currant, desiccated cherry, with wonderfully balanced fruit, acidity, alcohol (12.5%, thank you!), and gorgeously silky tannins.  Long, multi-layered finish with rosemary and white pepper beginning at 15-20 seconds.

If you haven't read Questions of Taste: The Philosophy of Wine, buy it to help form wine opinions of your own.  The goal is not for you agree with me. The objective is for all of us to know why we love the wines we love.